Free tool

Concrete calculator

Work out how much concrete you need for slabs, footings and post holes — in cubic metres, 20kg bags and dollars. Built by ConConnect for Aussie concreters and DIYers.

Driveways, shed floors, paths and patios.

m
m
mm
Wastage allowance
$/m³
You'll need approximately
2.64
Includes 10% wastage (2.40 m³ measured)
Suggested ready-mix order
2.8 m³
Or 20kg pre-mix bags
294 bags
Estimated concrete cost
$840

Estimates only. Confirm quantities with your batch plant and allow for site conditions, mix design and access.

How much concrete do I need?

Concrete is measured in cubic metres (m³). Multiply your dimensions in metres, then add a wastage allowance. These are the formulas the calculator uses.

Slabs & driveways

Length × width × thickness. Thickness is usually quoted in mm, so divide it by 1,000 first.

6m × 4m × 0.1m = 2.4 m³

Strip footings

Total trench length × width × depth. Measure every run of trench and add the lengths together.

12m × 0.3m × 0.45m = 1.62 m³

Post holes & piers

π × radius² × depth, multiplied by the number of holes. Radius is half the hole diameter.

π × 0.15² × 0.9m × 4 = 0.25 m³

Worked example: measuring to ordering

A 6 m × 4 m shed slab at 100 mm thick measures 6 × 4 × 0.1 = 2.4 m³. Add 10% wastage for uneven sub-base and spillage = 2.64 m³, then round up to the next 0.2 m³ truck increment and order 2.8 m³. In 20kg pre-mix bags that would be about 294 bags — which is exactly why a job this size gets ready-mix, not a mixer.

Concrete slab thickness guide

Thickness drives your volume more than anything else — 25 mm extra over a big slab adds up fast. These are the typical thicknesses used in Australia on a properly compacted base.

These figures follow Australian guidance: AS 3727.1 allows 75 mm for foot-traffic-only residential paths, AS 2870 governs residential slab design, and some councils set their own minimums — Brisbane, for example, requires 125 mm driveways. If an engineer has specified your slab, footing or pier sizes, always use those figures instead.

ApplicationTypical thickness
Paths & patios75–100 mm
House slabs & shed floors100 mm
Driveways (cars)100–125 mm
Heavy vehicles & machinery150–200 mm

Concrete calculator FAQs

How do I calculate how much concrete I need?

Multiply the length by the width by the thickness of the pour, all in metres, to get cubic metres (m³). For a slab 6 m long and 4 m wide at 100 mm thick: 6 × 4 × 0.1 = 2.4 m³. Add 5–10% for wastage, uneven ground and spillage.

How many 20kg bags of concrete make a cubic metre?

One 20kg bag of pre-mixed concrete yields roughly 0.009 m³, so you need around 110 bags per cubic metre. For anything over about 0.5 m³, ready-mix delivered by truck is usually cheaper and far less work than mixing bags.

How much does concrete cost per cubic metre in Australia?

As a rough guide, ready-mix concrete costs around $250–$400 per cubic metre supplied regionally, and up to $450 delivered in metro areas, depending on the mix (MPa strength) and delivery distance. Special mixes, short loads under about 4 m³ and weekend pours cost more. Laid and finished concrete typically runs $60–$85 per m² for a plain finish and $100–$180 per m² for decorative finishes like exposed aggregate or stamped concrete.

How thick should a concrete slab be?

In Australia, foot-traffic-only paths and patios can be as thin as 75 mm, while 100 mm is the standard for house slabs, shed floors and anywhere a vehicle might travel. Driveways are typically 100–125 mm — some councils, like Brisbane, require 125 mm — and slabs carrying heavy vehicles or machinery are 150–200 mm with appropriate reinforcement. Always follow your engineer's specification where one applies.

Should I order extra concrete?

Yes. Order 5–10% more than your measured volume to cover uneven sub-base, spillage and pump line loss. Running short mid-pour means a cold joint and a second delivery fee, which costs far more than the extra concrete.

When do I need a concrete pump?

You need a pump when the truck can't get close enough to chute directly into the forms — think backyards, tight access, pours above ground level or large slabs where you'd otherwise be barrowing all day. A line pump suits most residential jobs; a boom pump suits high or large pours.

Calculated the pour? Now run the whole job.

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